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Moving this way and that way

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Waiting for the bus on 10th Avenue. 3:00 PM. Photo: Jeffrey Hirsch.
Thursday, March 27, 2014. Sunny and mild but with a whipping, icy wind moving everyone this way and that across midtown.

It was the Michael’s lunch, and the place was packed – one hundred sixty at table and bar (also reserved and filled). The big star in the room was The Divine Miss M who was lunching with Boaty Boatwright. Miss M is very familiar with Michael’s as her husband Martin Von Hasselberg is one of Michael McCarty’s best pals, and is in the portrait with Michael (painted by Kim McCarty) next to the reception desk at the entrance of the restaurant.

Around the room: Joan Gelman; Elizabeth  Musmanno, PR exec now with her own company; formerly of Vera Wang; Adam Platzner of Cornelius Capital, Bisilia Bokoko with Judy Agisim, Prince Dimitri; next door to them:s Michael Garin, CEO of Image Nation Abu Dhabi, with Jacques Cousteau’s daughter (didn’t catch her name); and next door to them: Deborah Norville looking her bright and beautiful self; and next door to them: this writer with author (“Haywire”) Brooke Hayward; Beverly Camhe, Steven Stolman; Ed and Arlyn Gardner with Tony Hoyt; Dan Lufkin; Jordan Ringel; Andrew Stein with Nancy Ross and Ed Klein;Peter PriceAl Roker with Henry Schleiff; Kelly Langberg celebrating her husband Jeffrey’s birthday; Ellen Levine of Hearst; Debra Shriver of Hearst, Fern Mallis, George Green, formerly President and CEO of Hearst magazines; Dr. Jerry Imber with his pal Jerry della Femina. There are usually four or five at this table.

Moving right along:  Ed Kelly of American Express Publishing with Keith Kelly of the New York Post; Jack Kliger; Joe Armstrong with Dave Zinczenko; hedge fund guru James Chanos; Nick Verbitsky of United Stations; Lisa Linden of Linden, Alschuler & Kaplan PR, with Joe Spinado; Ryan McCormick with Diane Clehane; Robert Peck of Baron Captal, Steve Solomon of Rubenstein PR;  Betty Lee Stern; Stu Zakim of Bridge Strategic Communnications, and scores more just like ‘em.

A young Charles Masson arranging flowers at La Grenouille.
Sound-wise it was pandemonium. The conversation passing this table was mainly about La Grenouille, the ne plus ultra French restaurant around the corner on East 52nd Street where Charles Masson, son of the founders and manager of the restaurant for the past forty years, ran the business. Except for seven years in the 1990s when Charles departed after disagreements with his younger brother Philippe. At this stage, the word younger is relative — the men are now in their fifties. 

Last Saturday, Charles departed once again and was “replaced” by his brother who heretofore had been living in France where their mother lives.

New York magazine food and restaurant blog Grub Street, which broke the news of Charles Masson’s departure on their web site Tuesday, was able to interview Charles again yesterday, and the story began to surface in the media.

It turns out Charles Masson never had a share in the family business despite all the decades he has put in to taking care of his parents’ business and turning it into a restaurant without peer in New York. Amazing when you think of it. He’s been a paid manager, always requiring his mother’s approval and eventually his mother and his younger brother’s approval for anything he spent right down to a light fixture in the kitchen. This, while mother and brother were living across the Atlantic in France on the laurels of the son’s work.
Many years later, nobody does it better.
Recently, according to the interview, Charles learned that Philippe has become the majority owner of the restaurant — in other words, the mother gave it to him — and began his micro-managing, reminding his brother: “Remember Charles, you’re just an employee ....” Philippe, incidentally, told the New York Post that there was no family rift, adding that his mother “doesn’t want to be in a situation where she can’t sell her baby.” Aha! The plot thickens.

It’s an odd story, despite it being a family squabble. The Matriarch and her two sons at loggerheads. Whence comes the conflict? And from whom? This is of course, in the novel, or the film script. It begs the question: "Why now?" The brother, who now owns the "majority" share, has spent seven of the last 40 years working in the business. He left in 2000 after a disagreement with Charles that evidently threatened violence between the two in the restaurant kitchen (a knife or knives allegedly brandished).

Portrait of Charles Sr. in 1972.
In the meantime, the older brother, Charles, without a piece of the action, has built the family business into something that has triumphed down through the decades, being the very last of the great French restaurants that blossomed out of Henri Soule’s original Pavilion (where Charles Masson Sr. worked as a waiter when he first came to America).

All great restaurants have a personality that reflects the “owner.” There are no exceptions to this rule. Charles Masson Jr., albeit “not an owner, but only a manager,” did that. He did that not only to satisfy his vision of the restaurant but to protect the property and tradition of his parents, and also his brother. He gave La Grenouille its personality. Now that mother, with whom he evidently has a distant relationship (are you surprised?) has sent his brother back as “majority owner” to be Charles’ boss.

There’s an unrevealed factor working here besides the obvious sibling rivalry, which was clearly not arbitrated by the mother of the sons. When people who are close to the story refer to it as a Shakespearean drama, they are referring to the implication of the betrayal of one’s own blood. A fool, a knave and greed are always elements in Will Shakespeare’s plots.

So what is the real story here? Why have the mother and brother decided to wrest the running of the business from that son who has so brilliantly managed it to — ultimately — their benefit in the last four decades? Is it that they just don’t think he’s done a good job managing the family asset? Hard to imagine, considering his achievement. 
Prime New York real estate: The view of the Cartier mansion from the upstairs room at Le Grenouille.
The plot smells of something else. Some people think this is a real estate story. The family owns that property at number 3 East 52nd Street. Charles Masson Sr. acquired the building when he opened his restaurant in 1962. A former stable, built in 1871 is the same building where Saint-Exupery wrote "The Little Prince" (he was a friend of Masson Sr.), and the same edifice where a 120 years ago, in the Gilded Age, the society abortionist Mme. Restell performed her procedures to make sure the gilded names were not cursed with bastards. It is a landmark of 150 years in New York. Fifty-second Street and Fifth Avenue. Cartier is across the way. Prime prime, New York real estate.

The  non-participating owners could very conceivably sell the building for a very high price – millions and millions and millions and then can go back to the business of living off the restaurant without even having a restaurant. That’s not an original thought now, is it?

Meanwhile New Yorkers can expect to see Charles Masson enchant them once again with his knowledge, aesthetic, and art as a restaurateur.
Everyone told him it wasn't going to grow; a grapevine on East 52nd Street. That was 12 years ago. Charles calls it "The Grapevine of Hope."
For more ...

New York Times:From France to Midtown, a Rift Rocks La Grenouille

Grub Street:La Grenouille's Charles Masson on His Resignation: It Became 'Impossible' to Run the Restaurant
 

Contact DPC here.

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